Why does garlic turn yellow in spring - what to do, what to process, feed


The yellowed feathers of winter garlic in the garden can greatly spoil not only the mood, but also the future harvest. It is necessary to find out as soon as possible why spring garlic began to turn yellow and what to do to save the situation.

A close inspection of the plantings and one plant pulled out of the ground, a small analysis of the external growth conditions will help to quickly determine the cause of the change in the color of the stems and choose the correct tactics of action.

The main causes of yellow feathers of winter garlic in spring

  1. Freezing. In the unstable spring weather, warm clear days may again come cold and fresh shoots of garlic freeze. The leaves immediately respond by changing the color - a bright green color will be replaced by a frightening yellow. But not only spring frost can cause freezing. Finding the head of garlic in the ground more than 6-7 cm deep or violation of planting dates can be one of the factors of yellowing of leaves in spring.
  2. Pest damage. The cause of the yellowness of garlic feathers is often parasitic insects that have settled on a plant: an onion fly or a stem onion nematode. The first is easy to identify by the larvae on the basis of the stem and the flies circling above them. The nematode can be recognized by twisted yellow leaves and rotten roots of bulbs with a white or pink bloom.
  3. Disease. Could be the culprit of yellow garlic feathers in the spring could rot, mold or fungus. Skipping this reason for changing the color of the leaves is quite difficult. Painful bulbs when digging markedly differ from healthy ones in their appearance and structure. Bacterial contamination or excess moisture in the soil leads to similar consequences.
  4. Lack of nutrients. The low content of magnesium, potassium and nitrogen in the spring soil has the most negative effect on the yield of winter garlic. To think about the lack of these important elements is, if not the plant was reliably protected from frost and there is no visible evidence of infection by pests or diseases.
  5. Arid weather. Hot spring with a small amount of precipitation without timely watering leads to rapid yellowing and drying of garlic leaves due to the banal lack of moisture.

Methods of restoring winter garlic after yellowing stems

The sooner yellowing of garlic leaves in spring is noticed and the correct measures are taken, the faster the plant will recover. Having determined the factors that influenced the color of the stems, you need to try to eliminate them as soon as possible.

Fighting the effects of weather

With an insufficient amount of spring rains, the emerged shoots of garlic must be watered. Doing this is followed no more than once a week. Excess moisture bulbs completely useless.

Frost-affected plants are recommended to be treated as soon as possible. For this, the arrows are sprayed with an aqueous solution of Epin, Zircon, and other growth stimulants.

After applying them, garlic will quickly recover from the stress caused by frosts, and will begin to develop correctly:

The main causes of yellowing of garlic leaves in spring

Firstly, the leaves of winter garlic turn yellow in early spring, after it gets under heavy frost. This is one of the reasons.

Secondly, it can occur if the bulb is infected with a fungal disease.

These are just two reasons. They seem to be obvious, we can determine the cause of the yellowing of garlic leaves. In the morning we woke up, and on the grass frost, the puddles shook with thin ice. Or pulled out the onion and saw that on the bottom, the roots were blackened, there was mold.

What to do after spring frosts? If the garlic caught a light frost, there was a frost, then it is advisable to immediately treat it, spray the leaves with a solution of any stimulant - HB-101, Appin, Zircon and others.

Garlic diseases

At the very beginning I said that garlic can turn yellow from fungal diseases. They can cause yellow leaves. To treat fusarium, bacterial rot is difficult - easier to prevent. What to do? Before planting, the teeth had to be disinfected - pour a slightly pink solution of potassium permanganate, or with Maxim, or Fitosporin for 15-25 minutes. If you did not do it before planting, then it is possible to water the beds with these solutions for the prevention.

But sometimes there are no obvious signs of the cause of yellowing. There was no frost, the root on the bulb is clean. What is going on? What to do? What to handle? Or maybe you need to feed?

How to feed garlic in the spring

One of the reasons why the leaves of garlic planted before winter turn yellow is the lack of nutrients. Most often, it lacks nitrogen or potassium. What to do? For fertilizing, you can use mineral or organic fertilizers.

Rumble gently between the rows. Make a shallow (1-2 cm) groove. Pour (sow) granular fertilizers there, for example, urea (carbamide) or any complex mineral fertilizer. Sprinkle the granules with earth. After this, pour all the bed with rows between the plentiful so that the fertilizer dissolves, as any plants absorb nutrients only in dissolved form. After that, you can rumble a wet bed with dry earth or compost to keep the soil moist for as long as possible.

This is one use of mineral fertilizers.

The second option. Dissolve the first dry mineral fertilizer in water (1 tablespoon of urea or Fertiks Suite per 10 liters of water), pour. Consumption - 10 liters of solution per 1 square. m. This option is even preferable, since the liquid fertilizer immediately goes to the roots of plants.

What else can you do? You can make foliar feeding. It is especially useful for young plants. You can feed complex mineral fertilizer or potassium sulfate, which is also often not enough garlic. Norm of potassium sulfate - 1 teaspoon to 1 liter of water. Adjust your sprayer to a fine spray and spray all the leaves abundantly. This should be done in the evening in dry, windless weather, so that droplets of the nutrient solution fall on the leaves, do not dry out in the wind, but are completely absorbed.

From organic fertilizers for fertilizing, I use an infusion of cut green grass or weeds, with the addition of wood ash. How to make such a green fertilizer, I described in detail in the article "Tomatoes - how to feed and what are the top dressing." With a solution of this liquid "green fertilizer", you can water the plants under the root or make foliar dressings.

Terms of planting garlic

There is another reason for the appearance of yellow leaves on garlic. This is a failure to meet the landing dates. Novice gardeners plant garlic early in the fall, for example, in early September. And it should be planted about two to three weeks before the onset of cold weather. For the Krasnodar Territory it is November, for the middle zone - the end of September-October. Why is that? He should only have time to take root, but not to grow. If we plant it early in the fall, then in the spring, after the snow melts, yellow leaves will appear on the very early risen garlic. They just froze.

Garlic pests: onion fly, stem onion nematode

Pests can cause yellowing of garlic leaves. Inspect the plants carefully. You have noticed little worms at the base of the leaves. These are the onion fly larvae. What to process? You can get rid of them with saline. To do this, take 200 g of salt, dilute it in 10 liters of water. Spray this solution. Worms disappear.

The reason that the garlic leaves are yellowed may be the stem onion nematode. This is perhaps the biggest trouble. To fight it is useless. Can live in the soil, without water, food for 8-10 years.

What does an infected plant look like? The plant begins to wither. The leaves brighten, curled, the bulb with cracks begins to rot. Dig one head with yellowed twisted leaves. If it is damaged by a nematode, then on the bottom of the bulb there will be rotten roots and a white or pinkish plaque - these are small worms that can be seen only through a magnifying glass with a 10-20-fold increase - they are 1.5 mm long and 0.5 mm thick. A white or pinkish bloom on the bottom of the bulb is an accumulation of a pest. What to do? Such plants will have to be destroyed. The following year, garlic, onion plant in another garden.

What to process? Currently, there is no effective means of fighting the nematode. Before planting, it is recommended to season the chives in hot (40-45 ° C) water for at least 2 hours or in a 3% solution of table salt - 25-30 minutes at a temperature of 20-22 ° C. Such processing will not completely destroy the nematode, but will significantly reduce its quantity, and will prevent the spread of the pest. In the future, pay more attention to the selection of planting material.

Nematode loves acidic soil. Therefore, the infected area deoxidized with lime or dolomite flour. Nematode lives in plant debris, clumps of earth. Sow marigolds and calendula (marigolds) on infected areas. The marigolds and calendula attract with their smell the nematode, it goes on this smell, sticks to the roots, and the juice of these plants is poisonous for it and it dies.

Let's summarize now, briefly list the reasons why garlic can turn yellow.

  • Shoots came under frost.
  • The soil lacks the main nutrients - nitrogen, potassium.
  • Too early planted - he began to grow before the onset of cold weather.
  • Planting material or soil is infected with spores of pathogenic fungi or stem onion nematode.
  • Onion fly larvae hurt.
  • Drought, insufficient watering, dense soil can also cause yellowing.

Having determined the reason why your garlic turns yellow, you will be able to answer the questions yourself - what to do, what to process and feed.

Find out the reasons why garlic turns yellow

Let's see what is the true reason for the yellowing of garlic, because only this way it will be possible to take actions to eliminate it. Experienced agronomists identify several sources of the appearance of yellow feather in garlic:

  • too early landing before winter. Planting should be no earlier than October 15, so that the garlic does not have time to hatch,
  • with the onset of spring days, frost is not excluded, so the yellow frost could well have left the yellowness,
  • lack of nutrients can cause yellow topping of garlic tops,
  • putrefactive diseases of garlic, accompanied by the development of rot and yellowing of foliage,
  • the onion fly may also be the culprit, causing great damage to the crop.

How to determine exactly what caused the yellowing of garlic? If you are not sure that the matter is in frosts, the right decision would be to pull one diseased plant from the garden and inspect it. Putrid diseases of garlic can be noticed immediately by the presence of brown spots, darkening, even a small mold, etc.

If an onion fly starts up and the larvae are laid down, go to the garden and move your hand over the feathers, the insects will immediately start spinning. When pests are not detected, there is no disease, it remains to think that there is a lack of nutrients to garlic. Indeed, this happens, with the melting of snow, many nutrients are washed out, most go deep into the soil, where garlic does not get them.

In addition, at low temperatures, the ability of the plant to absorb the necessary food from the earth slows down, which is why the garlic turns yellow. Therefore, when there is a cold spring, many gardeners observe a yellow pattern on the garlic beds.

Yellowing garlic, how to save - folk methods and not only

Depending on the factors identified, yellowing will be eliminated. Garlic turns yellow in the garden, what to do when frost is still present? In such cases, in early spring, as soon as green feathers appeared, cover the bed with film, spunbond, or other material, and be sure to water it with growth-promoting drugs (Fitosporin, Epin-Extra, etc.). When the threat of frost has passed, remove the protective cover, and you will see that the garlic is green and feels great. Now you can feed.

In the case when the feathers are quite grown up and have a yellow color, apply fertilizer. Feeding garlic in spring and summer is carried out in accordance with the schedule and condition of the plants. Now at this stage it is necessary to take urgent measures and do the following:

➤ need to feed garlic urea. Dry fertilizer can be distributed in the grooves between the rows, then close the ground and shed well, so that all the granules are dissolved. But it is better to prepare a solution of urea (25-30 g / 10 l) and pour garlic,

➤ after freezing, spray the garlic from the yellowed leaves with Zircon (1 ml / 10l). The drug is a powerful antidepressant for plants, which will help to quickly recover and begin to actively grow. Spray should be every 5-7 days, until the feathers are restored to green,

➤ how to water garlic so that it does not turn yellow? If the garlic is green and the appearance is quite satisfied with the owners, in order to avoid yellowing, it is recommended to conduct foliar spraying with potassium sulfate (1 tsp / 1l) in dry, windless weather in the evening. This fertilizer can be replaced by any complex, the main thing - to breed according to the instructions on the package.

What to do if garlic turns yellow due to the fact that onion has settled on the beds? How to get rid of the parasite? Onion fly terribly dislikes carrots planted nearby, the smell scares. If you do not know how to grow large garlic in the garden, the first rule - observe crop rotation, plant a number of rescue plants.

Of the drastic measures, some gardeners and gardeners use salt against an onion fly. Make a solution (200 g / 10 l) and spill a bed, then be sure to pour it with plain clean water. Salt water does not like onion flies and its larvae. One procedure will be enough for the season.

Folk remedies will help, when the garlic turns yellow from an onion fly in June, ash and tobacco dust will come to the rescue. Just sprinkle aisle with a mixture of ash and tobacco dust, soon notice how the pest will disappear from the beds. Ammonia for garlic will scare away the onion fly and will be nitrogen fertilizer, you only need to breed properly (55-60ml / 10l). In addition, watering onions with ammonia will save and planting onions.

If rotten specks are found on the onions, then you need to take care of a healthy planting material and do not forget to disinfect the soil by shedding a bed of pink solution of potassium permanganate. Immediately before planting, the teeth must be disinfected using the same manganese or brine, the preparation Maxim. Now, dear readers, you know what to do when the garlic on the garden turns yellow.

Causes and action needed

Yellowing of garlic leaves is the norm if it occurs in the summer. Then you can gradually prepare for its cleaning and other activities to prepare for the seasonal storage of the product.

But what to do if the yellowness found itself in the spring, when the above-ground part of the vegetable should be green in the sun? First of all, it is important to determine the exact cause of the disease of the vegetable. This is half the way to its treatment and will help in a timely manner to take the necessary measures to preserve the harvest of the entire crop.

Violation of landing dates or weather anomalies

In recent years, for many gardeners - this is a stumbling block in garden work. Off-season weather is taken by surprise, with the result that the landing suffer. You can plant garlic in spring and autumn. In the first case, its heads are not too large, but they are well stored in winter. In the second - the harvest is rich, but its shelf life is not more than six months.

The best time for landing work is from mid-September to mid-October. But this is for central Russia and central regions. In the south, it is better to disembark later, after the “Indian summer”. Ideally, if this happens 30 days before frost. Then the teeth will have time to root well and not to give seedlings.

Yellowing of leaves is more characteristic of winter garlic due to inconsistency of weather conditions with expected ones.

If, however, shoots appeared before the onset of winter, it is likely that they will be caught by frost, especially in the absence of snow. Then the leaves in the spring will be yellowed, and this can lead to lower yields. Sometimes the culprits are spring late frosts, which can happen even in the south of the country in May.

Shallow landing

Again, depending on the region, the depth of planting garlic cloves in the autumn time ranges from 3 to 6-7 cm in depth, in some cases - up to 10 cm. This is without taking into account the mulch layer, which is used to protect against severe weather from weeds.

For mulching use hay, straw, fallen leaves, pine needles, sawdust, depending on what is at hand. But to do it or not - each gardener decides for himself, from which he then calculates the depth of planting winter garlic.

To determine the optimal depth of planting winter garlic, you can conduct a small experiment. Для этого на участке в одинаковых условиях высаживают зубчики на разную глубину и делают необходимые пометки. После чего отслеживают, где чеснок лучше всего растет, и берут за правило глубину его посадки.

Более подробно о посадке чеснока под зиму читайте в нашей статье: Все о выращивании озимого чеснока. Сорта, технология, советы

If the cloves of garlic are planted at a shallow depth for the region (without mulch), in winter they can freeze, especially if the winter is not snowy and windy. Spring shoots may not be, or they will be weak with thin yellowish leaves.

Wrong watering

For all its unpretentiousness, garlic is sensitive to water balance in springtime, when it is just beginning gain strength. Here it is important to organize the correct mode of watering and not to overdo it, since garlic itself is a rather drought-resistant plant and does not like an excess of moisture.

For this reason, in spring, while the snow has not yet completely melted, watering, of course, is not needed. But if nature decided to dispose otherwise, you should proceed as follows:

  • with a small amount of spring rains, it is enough to water 1 time in 10-14 days,
  • with aridity - once a week.

In July, watering is stopped, because at this time there is an active ripening of the bulb. Excess moisture will lead to softening and yellowing of garlic feathers, as a result of which putrefactive processes may begin. But when drought, on the contrary, the leaves turn yellow and dry, starting from the lowest.

Unsuitable soil

Garlic grows well in neutral soil, so its excessive acidity badly affects the appearance of the crop, and then leads to a significant decrease in yield.

Ideally, if the soil is neutral Ph is 6.5-7, but in order to get it, every autumn you need to liming the area where the garlic will be planted.

Normally, for weakly acidic soils take about 30 kg of lime per 1 hundred parts, for acidic soils - up to 70 kg, depending on Ph. During digging the ground with lime is thoroughly mixed and then the beds are made. Planting work carried out through one and a half to two weeks after liming.

In addition, the best place to land are well-lit, ventilated hills, where there is no overabundance of moisture. The soil should be loose, enriched with organic matter and oxygen.

Spring garlic prefers loam, winter - sandy loam soil. The best precursors for garlic are legumes, pumpkin, cabbage and greens. Onions, garlic, and members of the nightshade family have a negative impact on the quality of the crop.

Mineral deficiency

Do not underestimate this reason, since the lack of nutrients in poor soil is the same as vitamin deficiency for humans. The yellowing of the leaves of garlic leads to a deficiency of nitrogen, potassium and magnesium. In the first case, fertilizing with urea, manure or any other fertilizer containing nitrogen is required. It is necessary to feed up in the fall before sowing, but also in the spring, when the nitrogen was washed out of the soil over the winter.

You can play in the garden with sideratami. This trend over the past decade, more and more gaining weight. Siderates are essentially plants that enhance soil fertility, enrich it with organic matter and naturally protect crops from diseases and pests. Plant green manure is planted on the principle of joint planting, when neighbors have a positive effect on the growth of each other. Dill is an ideal companion for garlic.

With a lack of potassium, the edges of the garlic leaf are burnt. This usually happens in cold spring when the bulbs take the mineral from the feathers. Here, fertilizing with urea or fertilizer with potassium sulfate and sulfur can help. Moreover, fertilizing can be done not only in the form of watering, but also spraying the green part of the plant, which is no less effective. A lot of potassium is contained in the ashes, so you can sprinkle the beds with it. Just do not mix ash and humus - they are incompatible. It is permissible to combine potassium with magnesium sulphate.

Pests and diseases

The most common problem is in the form of a fungus that prefers raw shaded places and temperature fluctuations. It affects the bottom of the plant, causing, as a consequence, the yellowing of garlic feathers and the appearance of brown stripes on the trunk. If you dig up the affected vegetable, you can find the almost complete absence of roots and wateriness of the head. Infection occurs through the soil and planting material. Spores can spread by wind, insects, soles of the feet.

What to do?

The best prevention of fusarium is the treatment of planting material with potassium permanganate (potassium permanganate). If the infection has already happened:

  • remove contaminated landings with the ground,
  • disinfect the planting equipment with alcohol,
  • Lime the soil according to the season
  • Mulch the beds with PVC film.

Among the chemicals used Maxim XL, Uniform, Switch, Custody.

White Rot of Garlic Donets

It is a fungus that can infect a vegetable both during growth and during storage. The first sign of the disease is yellowing of the tips of the leaves and their further death, passing on to the trunk and bulb of young plants. The dug bulb is covered with white bloom (fungal mycelium) and is soft and watery to the touch. Plaque visible on the beds at the base of the leaves.

White rot lives in the soil and its life is up to 30 years, which is why it is difficult to get rid of it. The fungus develops very quickly at a temperature of about 10-15 ° C, most often in dry spring and in a soil poor in nitrogen. Plants die one after another. The spread of white rot occurs in the same way as in fusarium.

What to do?

Sanitation must be observed:

  • planting material must be clean, treated with potassium permanganate,
  • planting tools should be soaked in bleach in a ratio of 1 to 10.
  • if the fungal damage is not massive, it is recommended to remove the affected garlic along with the ground.
  • warm the soil in the sun with a black PVC film for 4-5 weeks,
  • in the ground add mineral fertilizers with ammonium nitrate.

For treatment with fungicides, Fitosporin M and Maxim XL is suitable, which protects planting material from various types of rot and mold and is a powerful stimulant for seed germination.

It is a fungus that spreads at high humidity and low temperatures. His full life cycle takes place on a single plant. The name of the disease was due to the convex "rusty" spots, which are covered with garlic leaves, sometimes entirely.

It develops mainly in the field of previous plantings, especially after onions. Most often found in the middle zone of our country, but it happens in the south. Rust significantly reduces garlic yield.

Despite the defeat of rust, garlic heads are suitable for consumption, and its cloves are suitable for winter plantings. Re-infection will not, as the fungus can exist only on living plants.

What to do?

To prevent disease, it is recommended to warm the seed in the oven at 38-40 ° C or dry it in the sun. Besides:

  • it is recommended to cut the feathers of garlic, which showed rust,
  • grow crops in sunny, ventilated places,
  • change plots every year

Chemicals do not affect rust, so their use is meaningless.

Onion fly

It looks like the most common small fly, but causing serious harm to garlic and onion plantings. She wakes up by the end of spring, when garlic already has 4-5 leaves. Fly activity lasts about a month, during which they actively lay their eggs on the ground part of the plants or in the soil near them. The hatched larvae penetrate deep into the bulb through the external tissues, causing the culture to turn yellow.

How to deal with onion fly?

First of all, the site for planting is recommended well, to dig deep - it will reduce the number of pests in the soil. Further, it is important not to miss the moment when the fly woke up and at the same time had not yet laid eggs. To do this:

  • sprinkle the beds with tobacco dust or tobacco dust along with lime in equal proportions,
  • use the method of joint planting and plant a tomato, carrot or lovage that scares flies next to garlic.

If the larvae have already hatched, a saline solution that the fly does not tolerate is effective against them. To do this, 1 cup of ordinary table salt is diluted in 10 liters of water and then water the beds at the roots.

Insecticides such as Karate Zion and Samum are allowed. The best insecticide is Angio of the Swiss manufacturer.

For more information about fighting the onion fly, read our other article: Onion fly - how to fight it? Overview of drugs and folk remedies

Stem Nematode

A serious pest in the form of white thread-like worms less than 2 mm long. It parasitizes crops and lays eggs in their tissues. The larvae, along with the adult individuals, feed on the sap of the affected cultures and can bring them to full drying.

Infection occurs through the seed, as well as along with the soil and working equipment. Nematode larvae become active at a temperature of 12-14 ° C. The first signs of a lesion are as follows:

  • heterogeneous color of leaves and the appearance of long light bands,
  • yellowing and twisting of feathers,
  • unpleasant smell from the bulbs.

How to fight?

As in the case of the onion fly, the struggle should begin in advance:

  • planting material along with the soil can be treated with saline,
  • To eliminate nematodes from cloves, the latter should be dipped in warm water for 2-3 hours or soaked at the same time in a solution with formaldehyde at a ratio of 1 ml of formalin to 300 ml of water.

To protect the beds you can use:

  • tobacco dust or ash,
  • joint planting with trap plants (spring rape, legumes) and plants repellents in the form of lupine, clover, alfalfa, calendula, marigold.

ATTENTION! The use of nematicides in the world is prohibited due to their extreme toxicity!

How to determine the cause of yellowing of garlic leaves

If there were no late frosts, and the crops are planted according to all the rules, a visual inspection of the crops should be carried out. To do this, you need to dig one affected head of garlic and inspect it for rot and parasites. In the case of confirmation of concerns should immediately take appropriate measures from special drugs or people's councils.

If there were still frosts, then it is recommended to immediately feed the crops with a growth regulator and fertilizer called “Zircon”, which, among other things, increases the resistance of crops to diseases and pests. It can also be used when the cause of yellowing of leaves cannot be established.

The first two reasons fall away? Then, perhaps, the matter is in unsuitable growing conditions and unpreparedness of the soil. Here will help organic or mineral fertilizers, which will stimulate the development of culture. Top dressing can be introduced in the form of irrigation or introduced into the grooves between the beds.

Attention should be paid to watering the plot. Perhaps there is a surplus of moisture, then watering should be abolished and vice versa. It is recommended to loosen beds for oxygen permeability of crops. In the case of dryness, moisture will help preserve mulching.

As prophylaxis

The following works are performed:

  • careful selection of only healthy planting material
  • preventive processing of material for planting before planting into the ground,
  • preventive processing of used equipment,
  • fertilizer and fertilizer application,
  • thoughtful watering of beds,
  • implementation of the principle of mixed landings,
  • planting garlic on a new site every year.

Knowledge of the basics in gardening works will help to navigate the situation. Garlic yellowing is a serious problem, the fight against which will be effective only when it happens in a timely and correct manner.

Incorrect landing time

Garlic is used in almost every kitchen in the world. This is explained by the fact that it has a very specific and pronounced taste, a composition rich in nutrients. They are seasoned with meat, salads and many other dishes, as well as being eaten raw.

Not only can garlic bulbs be eaten, but also leaves. Therefore, when they dry up, turn yellow and die, they become very sorry. One of the main reasons for the yellowing of the plant - non-compliance during planting.

There are two ways of sowing:

  • winter or autumn sowing,
  • spring or spring sowing.

Very generous harvest gives a vegetable planted in the fall. But the disadvantage of such sowing is that it is not stored for a long time - just up to six months. Spring sowing does not give a generous harvest, it can be stored for about a year. But why does the plant turn yellow?

The reason for this may be the fact that in the fall it can land very early. If you do this, it will rise to the first frost, which means that garlic will not have time to go for the winter. The shoots that fall under the frost, then the leaves will turn yellow.

But such a problem can occur with spring planting, only with such a planting crop. threatened late spring frosts. For this reason, when planting a plant you need to carefully monitor the temperature of the air, and sow it on time. To hedge, sometimes, winter planting is carried out in early December, and spring - in early May.

Yellowing due to improper watering

A lack or a very large amount of moisture may be the second cause of yellowing of the leaves of the plant. Disturbance of the culture very often results in a violation of the air-water balance.

Watering the plants is carried out once every two weeksIn case of a small amount of precipitation in spring. But if the spring is very hot and arid, then it is necessary to water the culture once a week.

And when the rainy season begins the culture does not need to be watered. Plant much tolerates drought easier than moistureThis important rule should be remembered by every summer resident.

Diseases and pests

Various diseases and pests can also cause yellowing of the culture. The plant has its afflictions, even though it in most cases deters pests from other plants.

Damage to the culture may be due to downy mildew, rot, rust, mold, onion fly or mite.

If these signs are noticed, then the cause of the disease of winter garlic is pests. To save the plant, you need it process fungicides. But the best remedy for diseases and pests is timely preventive actions.

Lack of minerals

If the soil lacks minerals such as nitrogen, magnesium and potassium, the plant may turn yellow. You can feed it with stale manure, diluted in water, with any nitrogenous fertilizer or urea, in case of lack of nitrogen nutrition.

Replenishment of this mineral substance is very important because it is washed out of the soil in the first place, and even if top dressing was applied in the fall, then by the time the first shoots of garlic appear, it will no longer be in the ground. For this reason in the springfertilize nitrogen in the ground must necessarily.

Shallow landing

Very small planting, is the main cause of yellowing of garlic leaves in the spring. If shallow chives are planted in the fall, they will freeze more quickly.

As a result of this, in the spring the plant will immediately flush the leaves, completely yellowed or with yellow tips.

To avoid this, it is necessary monitor the depth of landing: it should be from four to six centimeters from a tooth to the surface of the ground.

Good effect autumn mulching winter garlic humus (layer thickness must be not less than four centimeters). If the plant is still frozen and slightly yellowed, then try to create beds with garlic intensive and proper care: the plant must recover.

Bad seeds

Yellowing will appear, sprouts will have a very pale and weak appearance, after planting it will sprout very slowly, this will happen if the garlic had a bad appearance from the very beginning.

For landing is necessary use only new material, and you need to take fresh seeds of culture. If you do not have the opportunity to use the new planting material, then you need to choose the best of what is available.

Top dressing in the spring, as a way of prevention

To solve the problem is not difficult if it is a lack of nutrients. It is necessary to simply mix in the soil organic and mineral fertilizers. Organic fertilizers include chicken manure, humus and cow dung.

And mineral supplements have in their composition a complex of different elements, which activate the growth and development of plants and at the same time enrich the soil. You can feed the soil with irrigation, made with solutions or between rows. To do this, you need to do the grooves along the entire length of the row and fill them with fertilizer. After that, sprinkle the grooves with earth.

Garlic will benefit if it is watered and periodically sprayed potassium sulfate solution. To do this, take one spoonful of potassium sulfate and place it in a liter of water. It is necessary to sprinkle garlic in the evening, otherwise the drops of the solution made will dry out and the work will not bring any result.

As well as an infusion of urea or mowed grass, can be used as an organic fertilizer. To infusion is necessary add wood ash. After this, you need to infusion water the beds.

Other preventive measures

Prevention of yellowing culture includes the following activities:

  1. for planting you need to choose only healthy and high-quality material,
  2. in order to disinfect the culture from pathogens and various diseases, and also to make it inedible for larvae, it must be soaked before it is planted,
  3. в лунку для посадки необходимо вносить удобрение или проводить весеннюю подкормку, после того, как появились первые всходы,
  4. it is necessary to loosen the soil and weed, and also observe the irrigation regime,
  5. Calendula or marigolds should be planted between the rows of the crop, the smell of these plants will scare off various insects,
  6. no more than once every five years you can plant garlic on the same place,
  7. during the work it is necessary to use pure garden stock.

Causes of garlic yellowing

Yellowing and drying of garlic tops is normal at the end of the season, before harvesting. If winter or spring garlic turns yellow in spring or in the heat of summer, then this process is not just undesirable, but dangerous, so you need to look for the cause and eliminate it immediately. Delay in this case threatens the loss of crop quality, and even the death of plants. Among the main reasons for the untimely yellowing of garlic are the following:

  • wrong depth of landing,
  • violation of deadlines,
  • poor quality planting material
  • lack of nutrients, in particular, nitrogen, macro-and micronutrients. If fertilizers were applied to the soil during the autumn digging, their part, especially from sandy soil, can be washed with melt water,
  • soil acidity,
  • lack or excess of moisture,
  • poor air permeability,
  • defeat diseases and pests.

Chlorosis - yellowing of leaves - most often starts from the tips and quickly spreads to the entire garlic feather and stem of the plant.

If garlic has a premature yellowing and drying of the leaves, then it suffers from chlorosis.

What to do to prevent yellowing of garlic

It is well known that every problem is easier to prevent than to take measures to correct it. If we analyze the causes of chlorosis of garlic, then it can be noted that most often problems arise because of violation of agrotechnical rules when planting and caring for plants. Let us recall the main points that need to be paid attention to when growing garlic to prevent its yellowing.

Quality planting material and the correct planting of garlic

To begin, let's talk about the heads of garlic, intended for planting:

  • first of all select large heads that have the correct shape. If you have medium-sized onions at your disposal, then they take large cloves, and small ones are left for food,
  • when dividing the head into the teeth, the maternal bottom is carefully removed, which serves as a kind of stopper for the development of the roots of a young plant. If this is not done, the seedlings will turn yellow, fall behind in growth. The bottom of the clove itself must remain unharmed Analysis of the planting head of garlic for teeth directly before
  • do not use teeth as a landing material, on which the covering scales were damaged when parsing the head,
  • when sorting, the teeth carefully inspect, so that seeds with spots and other initial manifestations of infectious diseases do not go for planting,
  • Before planting, the harvested material should be disinfected and fed with microelements. Soaking in solution of the following components gives a good effect: boric acid (2 g) + zinc sulfate (0.3 g) + copper sulphate (0.5 g) + manganese (0.2 g). The number of components indicated on 1 liter of water The time for soaking garlic in a disinfecting and energizing bath is about 30 minutes.

If from year to year you use cloves of grown garlic for planting, then you risk getting plants with low viability. Experts recommend to periodically update the seeds of garlic through the cultivation of single-teeth from the air bulb. This is how you can get seed seeds, free from various diseases.

Single-tongue garlic grows from air seeds after the first year of vegetation

The next important point is the observance of crop rotation. Garlic can be planted in the old place no earlier than 3 years. It is this period that is necessary so that the spores of fungi and bacteria, which are harmful to the culture, lose their activity and do not infect young shoots.

When preparing the beds, it is recommended that soil should be deactivated by adding lime or dolomite flour (at a rate of 300 g / sq. M), since garlic grows frail and chlorous in acidic soil.

Planting of garlic should be carried out in optimal time. Winter garlic in central Russia is planted in early October, in the southern regions - in November. This is the most comfortable period, since before the start of frost the teeth will have time to take root, but they will not throw away the foliage. Spring garlic is planted on a bed in early spring after warming the soil to + 5–7 degrees. This temperature will be favorable for the formation of the root system of the plant and the start of leaf growth.

A special role is played by the depth of planting winter garlic. Small reserve may lead to freezing of teeth in the winter. In the spring, such a plant will not throw away the green feathers, but yellow, chlorotic ones. The unenviable fate awaits deep-set garlic - it can unevenly grow, get wet, melt. An external symptom of these problems will also be yellow leaves.

The optimum depth of landing is the depth at two heights of the clove itself (from the bottom to the top).

It is believed that from a brush of garlic to the surface of the earth should be no more than 2-3 cm

The bed with winter garlic in the fall can be covered with fallen leaves, which will serve as a good shelter from the winter cold. Mulching with straw, freshly cut grass will help protect the shoots from spring frosts. The time of garlic mulching is early spring, right after the soil thaws well: if it is mulched earlier, the mulch will keep the roots cold

Compliance with the agrotechnical rules of garlic care - the guarantor of the prevention of yellowing

The first thing you need to organize the correct watering garlic plantings. At the beginning of the growing season, when garlic is actively increasing its green mass, the plant needs abundant watering. If the moisture is low, the tips of the leaves will begin to turn yellow. In the phase of formation of heads, watering should be moderate, waterlogging during this period will lead to bulging of the bulbs, the first sign of which will again be yellowing of the leaves. For irrigation, it is desirable to use water with a temperature of +15 - 18 degrees

In the early spring period, a high standing of groundwater is observed in many vegetable gardens, and garlic in this case will suffer from overwetting. The only way to solve the problem is to plant garlic on high ridges.

After watering or rain, garlic plantings require obligatory loosening of the soil, since a dense earth crust will impede the access of air, and the garlic will react to an imbalance in the air by yellowing the foliage.

In order to prevent the leaves of garlic from turning yellow from a lack of nutrients, the plant should be fed in time. At the beginning of growth, it needs nitrogen most of all, so without waiting for garlic to tell you about starvation by its appearance, feed it with a solution of mullein (1:10), herbal infusion or mineral nitrogen-containing fertilizers.

Fresh manure is not recommended as top dressing.

As soon as the first garlic leaves appear from the ground, nitrogen fertilizer must be applied to the soil.

Prevention against pests and diseases

Damage to diseases and pests is one of the main causes of yellowing garlic feathers. An effective preventive measure to solve this problem is decontamination of seed. For its implementation, you can apply the above composition, as well as other, not less effective:

  • 1% solution of potassium permanganate or copper sulfate. Hold time - up to 10 hours
  • ash lye. To prepare it, 4 cups of wood ash are poured over 2 liters of water, boiled for half an hour, cooled. After separation of the solution, use its bright part for soaking the planting material. Hold time - about 2 hours,
  • phytosporin solution (according to the instructions).

Some gardeners advise the use of warming the teeth for 8–10 hours at a temperature of + 40–42 degrees.

On the Internet you can find recommendations for the thorough cleaning of garlic cloves of surface dry scales. Based on personal experience, let me doubt the necessity and safety of this procedure, since it can lead to damage to the covering scales, and this will open the way to various pathogens and pathogens.

If everything is done correctly, observe planting dates, pick up fertilizers, regulate the condition of the soil, garlic will grow without any problems, and you will not have to face yellowing of the leaves.

Garlic frost

Garlic leaves caught under frost can be sprayed with available growth promoters. According to experienced gardeners one of the most effective tools in this case is Appin. It enhances the immune system of the plant, stimulates the growth of new leaves. After treatment with garlic, it is easier to tolerate lower temperatures and a lack of moisture. Apply Epin can be once a week, repeating the treatment until the culture is completely cured. When dissolved, the product is suitable for use only for 48 hours, but it will give a really strong effect only if applied immediately.

Another drug that has a reducing effect is Zircon. It helps garlic at the cellular level to develop and recover quickly, enhances the growth of leaves, protects the plant from stress and disease, strengthens the immune system. The tool is absolutely safe, as it consists of herbal ingredients. Zircon is recommended to combine with vitamin supplements and fertilizers, then it will bring great benefits. Garlic will respond well to treatment with Zircon under the condition of a small concentration of the substance: no more than 40 drops per 10 liters of water

Generic cure for garlic is succinic acid. It is a drug created on the basis of processed amber products, it has a stimulating effect, and also feeds the plant with microelements. As a result, garlic treated with succinic acid, quickly restored after frost damage, easier to tolerate periods of drought and other stressful situations. The solution of succinic acid can be used for spraying and watering garlic

Succinic acid can be bought in specialized gardening shops and pharmacies. This tool is recommended for improving human immunity.

With the defeat of diseases or pests

It happens that all agrotechnical measures are carried out, there is enough nutrients and moisture to garlic, and garlic continues to turn yellow. In this case, you must check the plant for signs of disease and pests. It is necessary to remove the plant from the ground and carefully examine it.

Noncharacteristic patches, stains, peeling of the bottom, putrid odor and visual detection of parasite larvae are the symptoms on the basis of which a decision should be made about processing the landings with proven insecticides and fungicides. The use of these drugs in the initial phase of the development of the disease or in the period of the flight of insects and egg laying will give good results. The main thing is to use chemical preparations according to the instructions and observe the necessary precautions.

Traditional methods of protecting garlic

The use of chemical preparations for the protection of garlic crops is a highly effective way of eliminating pests and pathogens, but its essential disadvantage is that in the fight with such means can be caused significant harm not only to the environment, but also to the human body. Therefore, many gardeners prefer proven, proven decades-old folk methods of solving the problem of yellowing garlic and its protection. "Grandfather's" advice does not require large labor costs and material investments, they are simple in execution, the components of the funds are substances that are always at hand.

Here are some popular tips to help improve the health of garlic and protect it:

  • It is recommended to shed boiling water on the bed prepared for planting garlic, to which potassium permanganate is added (the solution should be dark pink). This procedure has a good disinfecting effect.
  • The bed with winter garlic should be under a thick layer of snow, which will prevent the planted cloves from freezing. If the winter was little snow, then rake the snow on the plot where the vegetable is planted,
  • Dust the garlic between the rows with tobacco dust or ash. These substances effectively repel the onion fly,
  • next to garlic sow carrots. The persistent aroma of its tops also dislikes the onion fly,
  • scares garlic pests smell of ammonia. To prepare the solution for 5 liters of water, add 30 ml of the product. Spraying is carried out in the evening, pre-watering the bed with water,
  • spraying with a saline solution (200 g of salt per 10 l of water) helps to fight the onion fly,
  • from tobacco dust, you can make an infusion and also spray garlic from pests. To this end, 200 g of tobacco is poured with 5 liters of warm water and infused for 2 days. Then filtered, add another 5 liters of water and used for processing landings.

If you have determined that the reason for the yellowing of the leaves is the defeat of the nematode, then take note - to destroy it and to completely improve the garlic will not be possible either by chemical or folk remedies. A proper crop rotation will not come to the rescue either, since the pest can live in the earth for many years. The only remedy is the timely introduction of lime and dolomite flour, since the parasite loves only the acidic soil. The garlic head, affected by the nematode, becomes soft and loose, the bottom rots, and the roots die.

Do not forget that calendula, sown between rows, is a living cordon from many dangerous pests, including stem nematodes.

Please note: if the leaves of garlic just turned yellow, then the situation in most cases is fixable using the recommendations from this article. But the drying, deformation, twisting of the leaves, the appearance of stains on them, rot at the base of garlic indicate more serious problems that require the immediate removal of affected plants and the processing of garlic plantings with special means.